Imagine my surprise reading Ted Rall’s column dealing with what a gloomy place Pakistan is. Rall paints a grim picture of life and travel in Pakistan. Pakistanis are not happy and there is danger everywhere. Not to mention the inefficient public transportation and the hypocrisy of the ruling class. He describes Pakistan as “a mass of internal contradictions” beginning at the airport where the airport staff is cold and the tension is thick.
He describes the political situation as if it were the only thing any one is thinking of. “The Red Mosque crisis symbolizes the devil's bargain Pakistan's ruling elites have struck with Islamic radicals.” He reminds us that Pakistan is a “nuclear-armed state” and “a terrifying cauldron of instability”. Further discoloration follows with describing General Pervez Musharraf as “a military dictatorship… an antidemocratic despot… (coming) to power by allying himself with radical Islamist political parties. (Therefore), most Pakistanis… watch their nation's Talibanization in passive silence.”
Is Rall suggesting that if Musharraf was not in power, there would be stability in Pakistan?
Rall is particularly concerned about the “the dismal condition of Pakistani highways” where unless you are one of the “elite motorists” the four hour drive from Islamabad to Lahore will “costs 12 hours and the occasional broken axle”. He refers to the countryside in between as “impoverished wasteland”. Well… you know… actually, a lot of it is summer vacation land.
He claims that “Pakistani women rarely venture outdoors. When they do, they cover themselves--with headscarves… and burqas.” Interesting. What are they going to wear on the catwalks at the Pakistan Fashion Week later this year?
Furthermore, “Muslim Pakistan banned alcoholic beverages in 1977. Drinkers face 20 lashes and three years in prison.” When was the last time this law was enforced?
The Lahore Museum, “notable for its… sauna-hot browsing conditions, displayed a map of cultural anthropological sites. Pakistan's neighbors…were clearly labeled, (except India)”. I think the average Lahorite knows where India is especially with all the goodwill tours currently going on.
Rall’s viewpoints hardly matches the ones I gathered from my visits. But do not take my word for it. Let’s read the more recent impressions from Santosh Ojha, correspondent for the Deccan Herald in Bangalore, India.
So, Ojha, what do think of the airport?
Lahore airport came as a pleasant surprise! To start with, the airport is named after a poet and (not after a politician)… Allama Iqbal.
What about the airport staff?
The immigration is staffed by smartly-clad women with their heads covered. No fuss, no delay and we are out of the terminal building quickly.
And the quality of the roads?
I… can not help but (be amazed) about the quality of the roads! Six lane roads, well maintained. The trees are bedecked with lights.
Did you receive 20 lashes for your drink of whiskey?
Islam taboos consumption of alcohol. And Pakistan is a dry state… But mercifully for the tipplers, Pakistan does not prohibit consumption of alcohol provided you are a non-Pakistani and a non-Muslim and you are consuming the daaru within the confines of your room.
By the way, Rall describes the Pakistanis as humorless, What do you say to that?
Our colleague based in Islamabad… a devout Muslim, …is a quiet and genial sort of a person and ever willing to help.
Any place you would like to recommend visiting?
The memorable trip to Food Street in Gawalpura! A plain, non-descript street… blocked at either end of the street after 7 pm; the Street bristles with gastronomic activities till the wee hours of the morning. (And…) a quick visit to Shalimar Garden.
I know where you are talking about. My favorite places too. Say, Ojha, why don’t you and I take Rall out on the town sometime. The poor guy really needs to get out more often.
Published by East West Services, Inc.
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